Nazi Sites in Nuremberg: Third Reich Buildings, Then and Now
Nazi Sites in Nuremberg: Third Reich Buildings, Then and Now

Almost everything written in English about Nazi Nuremberg is about a field outside the city — the rally grounds at Dutzendteich, the Zeppelinfeld, the unfinished Congress Hall. This article is about the other Nuremberg: the eight buildings inside the old city that the regime used, renamed or built between 1933 and 1945.

The Rathaus, where Hitler was made an honorary citizen on 30 August 1933, and the city was declared Stadt der Reichsparteitage. The Hauptmarkt, renamed Adolf-Hitler-Platz, with the medieval Schöner Brunnen boarded up in concrete to survive the bombing. The Fleischbrücke, the sixteenth-century bridge that came through the war almost untouched. The building on Frauentorgraben where the Nuremberg Laws were signed on 15 September 1935. The Hotel Deutscher Hof, rebuilt to Hitler’s own specification, with the balcony he used at every party congress. The Hauptbahnhof, which handled over a million rally visitors in a week. And the two party buildings, the Gästehaus der NSDAP and the Nuremberg Braunes Haus.

On the night of 2 January 1945, the old city was destroyed in a single raid — around ninety per cent of it. Almost everything you see in the modern photographs here is a post-war reconstruction, built to look like what stood before. Which of these buildings is original, which is a copy, and which is gone altogether is a large part of the story.

I walked all locations in 2018 and photographed each from the position of the archive image. The addresses and the questions people ask most often are at the end. The rally grounds themselves are covered in a separate article.

Adolf Hitler at Hauptmarkt Nuremberg
Adolf Hitler salutes the SA troops during the Reichparteitag in Nuremberg

 

NUREMBERG BEFORE 1933: WHY THE NAZIS CHOSE THIS CITY

The Nazi movement did play down the city of Nuremberg as the ‘cradle of German history’ and even attributed it to the value of ‘the most German city’. Within the years 1933-1938, Nuremberg witnessed the annual Party Congresses and hundreds of thousands of guests from nearly every inhabited corner of the country with a postcode. Along with the mass Nazi Party Rallies in the South-East part of the city, the government used to run crowded manifestations in the very heart of Nuremberg, known as the Altstadt (The Old Town). It was no less than a fact of life to see mass parades and crowds of people, who made their inspired way following Hitler’s motorcade. The German Führer often visited pre-planned locations in Nuremberg to meet city officials, religious figures, and his ‘Alte Kameraden’ (Old comrades), and to deliver his pompous speeches in public.

The city of Nuremberg suffered the 1940-1945 Allied air raids to a great extent of destruction, and many of the historical landmarks have not survived the Second World War or were restored or rebuilt, modified. In a broader historical sense, only a few of the locations and buildings I refer to in this article as the ‘Nuremberg Nazi sites‘ were built during the era of the Third Reich, with the majority being part of Nuremberg’s architectural heritage that goes back centuries.

Hitler, wearing the uniform of the Sturm Abteilung (SA), salutes from an open topped car at Nuremberg on Party Day, September 1938
Hitler in the uniform of the Sturm Abteilung (SA), salutes from an open car at Party Day in Nuremberg. September 1938

 

THE RATHAUS: WHERE HITLER WAS MADE AN HONORARY CITIZEN, 30 AUGUST 1933

The City Town Hall of Nuremberg originally stretches back its foundation stone to the XIV century, being laid out in a pre-war look already in the 1620s. On August 30, 1933, exactly seven months after gaining power in January and now as a prelude for the ‘Reichsparteitag des Sieges’ (Congress of Victory), Adolf Hitler made his public speech within the Rathaus for the first time, acting as German Chancellor. In the years since 1933, Hitler formally opened the annual Party Rallies, originally known as the ‘Reichsparteitage ’, through his speech in the Town Hall. On September 4, 1934, and September 10, 1935, the German Führer opened the grand events with his rhetoric respectively. The year 1936 witnessed a ‘reshaping’ of the established format with Hitler addressing the audience not inside, but in front of the Town Hall on September 8. This ‘open-air’ adaptation of the mass event succeeded in gaining even more attention as the headline of the first day of Congress. In the two pre-war years of 1937 and 1938, Adolf Hitler preserved the tradition of speech inside the Nuremberg Rathaus.

RATHAUS - NUREMBERG CITY HALL. Nuremberg nazi sites
Adolf Hitler salutes the Ehrenkompanie in front of Nuremberg’s town hall before opening the Reichsparteitag, September 1936
Hitler arriving at the Nuremberg Rathaus, where he was made an honorary citizen on 30 August 1933
Hitler delivers an opening speech at the 1935 Party Day in the Nuremberg Town Hall

The City Town Hall of Nuremberg was badly damaged during the Allied air raids back in the Spring of 1945, to be later restored, losing some elements of its historical look and interiors. The overall architectural ensemble of the Rathaus was made between the years 1956 and 1962, and the interior works indeed expanded until the very 1980s. In no small part, the efforts of the renovation affected the inter-floor covering and the wooden ceiling, decorated once again with caissons. It’s still a matter of debate to restore the wall paintings of Albrecht Durer, once lost in dust and fire.

RATHAUS - NUREMBERG CITY HALL. Nuremberg nazi buildings today
During my visit to Nuremberg in August 2018, I had restricted time to get inside the Town Hall
Nuremberg Town Hall
Being squeezed between nearby buildings, the Town Hall still makes an impression

 

HAUPTMARKT, RENAMED ADOLF-HITLER-PLATZ: THE SQUARE AND THE SCHÖNER BRUNNEN

Back in 1349, Karl IV, the King of the Romans (Germany) and Bohemia (Czech), and only six years from the title of the Holy Roman Emperor, delivered an order to eliminate a Jewish quarter in the center of the city of Nuremberg and to fill the location with a new planned market square. A bloody action of ‘resettlement’ turned into a massacre with 562 dead people, captured and burned alive, of the whole 1500 population of the quarter. The former Jewish ghetto and now the burning ruins were cleared for the construction of two squares of modest size. The largest of the two sites was assumed as the ‘Big market’ and later as the ‘Greenmarket’, destined to become the main square in Nuremberg with Apr. 5000 square meters of open space.

The Hauptmarkt in Nuremberg before the war, with the Schöner Brunnen on the left
The drawing of the Nuremberg Market Square, how it looked in 1594
The flood within the Hauptmarkt Nuremberg
Hauptmarkt during the 1909 flood

Within the years of the Third Reich era, the ‘HAUPTMARKT’ of Nuremberg used to be the final station of the mass parades and manifestations, including Hitler’s motorcade. On March 25, 1933, seven weeks after Hitler had become the Chancellor, the Hauptmarkt Square was officially renamed ADOLF-HITLER-PLATZ (The Square of Adolf Hitler). Alongside the South-Western part of the city with its annual Party Congresses (Nazi Party Rallies), the main square was also a common open-air location to host mass meetings in Nuremberg. Adolf Hitler used to review the parades of the SS, SA, Hitlerjugend, the German Labour Front (Arbeitsfront), and some Nazi organizations. The Adolf-Hitler-Platz also witnessed the all-time high of Jakob Grimminger with the ‘Blutfahne’ (Bloody flag), the almost mythical Nazi symbol of the failed 1923 Putsch.

The Hauptmarkt as Adolf-Hitler-Platz during a party congress
Hitler and Ludendorff watching a SA parade on German National Day, 1923
Nuremberg main square in the Third Reich
The seemingly endless procession of troops passing through Nürnberg main square was designed to impress both the Germans and the foreign press
Hauptmarkt Nuremberg Hitler
Hitler is depicted in the lead car as his motorcade passes through the cheering crowds of Nürnberg on Hauptmarkt
Foreign military attachés at the Party Day in Nuremberg.
Foreign military attachés photographed during one of the Party Rallies in Nuremberg

The FRAUENKIRCHE (The Church of Holy Mary) and the well-known Schöner Brunnen (The most beautiful fountain), the general stop for the Hitler motorcade to ‘heil’ the crowd, are the most distinguishable architectural landmarks on the square. The present fountain is no more than a beautiful replica. The historical Schöner Brunnen was ‘lucky’ enough to survive the air raids of Nuremberg, dust-covered, and has been exhibited in a museum since the war ended. Another historical landmark, known as the ‘NEPTUNBRUNNEN’ (The Fountain of Neptune), was destined not to survive even the Third Reich, as it was taken down on June 12, 1934, on a personal commission from Hitler. The Nazis were not to make up their mind about the fountain, considered to be created by an architect with Jewish origins.

The same square today, the Schöner Brunnen back in place
I took this panoramic view with my amateur pocket camera

On April 20, 1945, on the day of the last birthday of Adolf Hitler in a bunker in Berlin and still with the sounds of the battle for Nuremberg, the American troops had a Parade of Victory within the main square of the city. On the same day, the liberators once again renamed the main square into ‘Iron Mike Square’, honoring the unofficial nickname of John W. O’Daniel, the commander of the 3rd Infantry Division, one of the three divisions that had taken the city. The then-General ordered the renaming of the place to the ‘Square of Roosevelt’ to honor the President, who had passed away. A few days later, the square was once again renamed and restored to its historical origin as the HAUPTMARKT, with the renovation works completed only in the 1950s.

The US 7th Army marches into Nuremberg in April 1945
The soldiers of the US 7th Army marched across the main city square in April 1945
The main square of Nuremberg - Nuremberg nazi sites ww2
The Main Square of Nuremberg is not as crowded as the one in Munich during midday

 

THE FLEISCHBRÜCKE: THE BRIDGE THAT SURVIVED THE BOMBING

Only a two-minute walk from the HAUPTMARKT, the city of Nuremberg welcomes its guests with another historical landmark. The Fleischbrücke (The Meat Bridge) over the narrow Pegnitz River stretches back to the years 1596-1598 when the new bridge was erected to replace the former failing construction, which had been seriously damaged during the flood. On the day of the inauguration, the Fleischbrücke was the largest brickwork bridge in Germany, with 15.3 meters and a length of 27.

The Fleischbrücke over the Pegnitz before the war
This photo was taken in 1934 and depicted the bridge from the side. The Hauptmarkt square is to the left beyond the frame
The Fleischbrücke during the Nazi period, decorated for a party congress
Another rare photograph of the bridge with the Main Square visible in the far background, particularly the Fountain of Neptune

In the years of the Third Reich, the Fleischbrücke bridge did become an integral station of the military and civil parades along the streets of Nuremberg, in particular during the annual Party Congresses in August-September. The multiple photos and the archive camera footage of the era depicted the mass manifestations, used to make their way to the main square backward. The extensive width of the bridge allowed for the use of Hitler’s motorcade. The bridge has survived the Allied air raids on Nuremberg as well as the battle for the city and comes down to us pretty much the same as it was opened back in 1599. In 1974, the Fleischbrücke bridge was entered in a list of the historical monuments of Germany, and the years of the 2000s witnessed renovation works.

The Fleischbrücke in 1945, one of the few structures in the old city left standing
Fleischbrücke Bridge during the march of the stormtroopers, 1937
Nuremberg city center
Pretty much the same street eighty years later, now with a Starbucks cafe as the reminder of who won that war

 

WHERE THE NUREMBERG LAWS WERE SIGNED, 15 SEPTEMBER 1935

The construction site and the multiple ruins are now (my visit in 2018) the only reminders of the historic building that once stood on Frauentorgraben 49. The Architectural complex was known as the Kulturvereins Haus (House of the Cultural Society) and was part of the ‘Industrie- und Kulturvereins’ of Nuremberg. The building was ceremonially opened in 1905 and was meant to be an architectural masterpiece and a favorite vacation destination for the citizens. In September 1923, ten years before gaining power in Germany and only two months before the failed ‘Beerhall Putsch’ in Munich, Adolf Hitler gave a speech in the ‘Kulturvereins Haus’ building. The first two days of September that year in Nuremberg witnessed the so-called ‘Deutscher Tag’, a mass event with more than 100,000 people, in crowded streets. The major part of that amount was filled with right-wing nationalistic groups such as the paramilitary formations of the former war (First World War) veterans and the young Nazi party, the NSDAP. Hitler was back again here on August 21, 1927, and August 4, 1929, with his heartfelt speeches.

‘Kulturvereins Haus’ in Nuremberg
‘Kulturvereins Haus’ building in Nuremberg between two World Wars
‘Kulturvereins Haus’ Nuremberg
Another rare photograph of the location where the infamous Nuremberg laws were signed

The big banquet hall of the ‘Kulturvereins Haus’, well-known among the citizens of Nuremberg at that time, was chosen to host one of the mass meetings during the VII Party Congress in 1935, known as the ‘Reichsparteitag der Freiheit’ (The Congress of Freedom). It was this very banquet hall in ‘Kulturvereins Haus ’ that witnessed Hitler’s speech on September 15, 1935. The ultimate single-person ruler of the state had presented the so-called ‘Nuremberg Racial Laws’.

Nuremberg Racial Laws
Nuremberg Racial Laws in Infographics

The ‘Kulturvereins Haus’ was badly damaged during the mass air raid of Nuremberg on the night of January 2, 1945, and witnessed the end of the war as no more than ruins. Already in the 1950s, the city officials initiated reconstruction works, and the building was partially restored, losing its original historical look. The renovated version was completely demolished already in 1967 to place a new building to serve as the headquarters of the ‘AOK’ insurance company since 1971, now once again demolished to free space for new construction. The building is gone. On its site stands an AOK office building — the regional health insurance fund.

‘Kulturvereins Haus’ during reconstruction
The process of destruction of the ‘Kulturvereins Haus’ in the 1960s
The hall on Frauentorgraben where the Reichstag passed the Nuremberg Laws on 15 September 1935
The site during my visit, in August 2018
A site where the 1935 Nuremberg laws were signed then and now
A modern satellite look at the building, which was raised after my 2018 visit to the city

 

HOTEL DEUTSCHER HOF: HITLER’S BALCONY IN NUREMBERG

For years, the Deutscher Hof hotel, a few city blocks from the main railway station, had been a residence for Adolf Hitler during these visits to Nuremberg. Even though the hotel is still well-known because of the scenes from the legendary ‘Triumph of the Will’ propaganda movie, Hitler did spend his time here and even made speeches years before 1933. Room number 105 on the second floor was a general residential accommodation for the German Führer. In 1936, the building was completed with a new wing with a new spacious apartment for Hitler and a famous so-called ‘Führer Balkon’ (Führer’s balcony).

DEUTSCHER HOF Nuremberg
A unique old postcard with a magnificent Deutscher Hof
The Hotel Deutscher Hof after its rebuilding in the mid-1930s
The ‘Führer Balkon’ (Führer’s balcony) can be seen on the right side of the building

The Deutscher Hof Hotel was not damaged during the war and survived the air raids and the battle for the city, as well as some renovations. One of the renovation periods caused the demolition of Hitler’s balcony on the right wing, yet the old balcony, notoriously known because of the ‘Triumph of the Will’, still looks pretty much the same as in 1934. The hotel building itself stands, is listed, and after a four-year restoration completed in spring 2016 is now an office building, occupied by a German trade association. The hall building on Lessingstrasse — the Lessingsäle, which housed the Lessing Theatre from 1946 to 1959 — was demolished in 2014 to make way for the Opernpalais apartments. And the balcony deserves a sentence of its own: the original was on the Ruff extension, it was not rebuilt when the building was restored after 1947, and the balcony you see today is a reconstruction added during the 2014–16 works, placed on the fourth floor rather than the third. What you are looking at is a modern echo of the object, not the object.

DEUTSCHER HOF in Nuremberg. Nazi Buildings
Deutscher Hof, with nazi banners on it
  • SEPTEMBER 2, 1923. On the second of two days of the ‘Deutscher Tag’ mass meetings in Nuremberg, Adolf Hitler made several public speeches, with one in Kulturvereins Haus and another in front of the narrow circle in the Deutscher Hof hotel.
  • MARCH 22, 1929. Hitler made an oration for the privileged members of the NSDAP party inside the Deutscher Hof
  • AUGUST 1-4, 1929. Hitler made his way to the city of Nuremberg to patronize the IV Party Congress and was accommodated in room number 55 of the Deutscher Hof. Within these very days, Winifred Wagner, a daughter-in-law of Richard Wagner (a composer who had always fascinated Hitler), came to Nuremberg and occupied room number 57, just next door to Hitler.
Hitler on the balcony of the Deutscher Hof during a party congress
Adolf Hitler on the balcony of Deutscher Hof during the 1936 Reichsparteitag
Hitler's balcony today: Hotel Deutcher Hof
Another balcony, not the one which Hitler used
  •  SEPTEMBER 18-19, 1931. Hitler came to Nuremberg for political purposes and stayed in a hotel for only one night. On the morning of the second day, his motorcade moved to the North, but the future Führer was soon after devastated by the secret news that Geli Raubal, Hitler’s half-niece, had committed suicide in Hitler’s accommodation in Munich. The leader of the NSDAP party immediately changed his destination and went to Munich. The common fact is that his car was stopped by a police officer for speeding on their way to the heart of Bavaria.
  • DECEMBER 19, 1932. On the eve of that Monday, Hitler delivered his passionate speech to the members of the ‘Motor Sturm Abteilung’, a motorized unit of the SA.
  • FEBRUARY 11, 1935. Adolf Hitler took the improvised stage inside the Deutscher Hof Hotel to address the audience, previously gathered by Julius Streicher, an editor of ‘Der Stürmer’.
  • SEPTEMBER 7, 1938. Hours after the Volksdeutsche citizens of the Sudetenland had made a confrontation with the local police, Hitler managed an emergency meeting with the foreign diplomats, who came to the Deutscher Hof.
The restaurant inside DEUTSCHER HOF.
A photograph of the restaurant inside Deutscher Hof.
DEUTSCHER HOF. in Nuremberg ww2
Except for slight changes, the Hotel still looks pretty much the same as in the 1940s
Inside Deutcher Hof
The lobby of Deutscher Hof nowadays

 

THE HAUPTBAHNHOF: HOW ONE STATION MOVED A MILLION RALLY VISITORS

It was a common practice for Hitler, as the leader of the NSDAP and especially as the Chancellor, to come to Nuremberg on a plane with his loyal pilot Hans Baur and employ a motorcade. At the same time, the HAUPTBAHNHOF of Nuremberg used to serve as an important means to welcome hundreds of thousands of German citizens from all over the country, especially in September on the eve of the Party Congresses. At times it was also chosen for mass meetings and parades. One of the preserved photos of the 1936 Party Rally depicted Hitler reviewing the parade of honor guards of the ‘1st SS Panzer Division Leibstandarte SS Adolf Hitler just in front of the Nuremberg main train station. The photo also depicted Heinrich Himmler, a few steps behind his Führer.

The Hauptbahnhof during a party congress, when special trains left at eighty-second intervals
The first version of the central station in the neo-Gothic style, mid-XIX century
HAUPTBAHNHOF MAIN TRAIN STATION
A unique aerial photograph of the Nuremberg Main Train Station
The Hauptbahnhof today, photographed in 2018
SA troops in front of the Nuremberg main station, 1933

The rallies are remembered for the marching columns; the part that made them possible was the timetable. In the peak year of 1938, something over a million visitors had to be brought into a city of four hundred thousand and taken out again within a week. At the end of the congress, special trains left the Hauptbahnhof at intervals of about eighty seconds. There was nowhere in Nuremberg to park the empty stock, so trains waited on sidings across half of Germany — some as far away as Dresden, roughly four hundred kilometres — and were called in as they were needed. Two suburban stations, Dutzendteich and Fischbach, were rebuilt to handle the overflow, and a further enormous station was planned beside the Märzfeld to serve the rally grounds directly. It was never finished.

This is the least visible part of the machinery and the most revealing: the congresses were, among other things, one of the largest scheduled passenger operations attempted anywhere before the war.

Adolf Hitler in Nuremberg
Adolf Hitler, Heinrich Himmler, and Karl Wolff in front of the station, 1936
Nuremberg main train station today
The same location as the previous archival image

 

THE GÄSTEHAUS DER NSDAP: WHERE THE PARTY LEADERSHIP STAYED

The luxurious building opposite the HAUPTBAHNHOF and next to the ‘Grand Hotel’, known at the time of the Third Reich as the ‘Gästehaus der NSDAP ’, was built in a matter of seven months and opened in 1936. From the very beginning, it architecturally incarnated the at that time modern approach to comfort with a never-before-made ventilation system of air-conditioning, still a rare practice back in the 1930s. During the annual Nazi Party Rallies in Nuremberg, the ‘Gästehaus’ was a general accommodation for the high-ranking officials of the regime. In no small part, Hermann Goering used to stay in a luxurious room within this very NSDAP hotel.

Already in 1945, soon after the liberation of the city, the American troops occupied the luxurious hotel. In the span of the years 1945-1949, it accommodated the judges and lawyers, the participants of the International Military Tribunal in Nuremberg. Starting from 1996, the building was a residential estate with a store on the first floor, and since 2003 it has been mostly abandoned. The former ‘Gästehaus der NSDAP’ has witnessed several renovations, with the new opening in 2016 as the ‘PARK PLAZA NUREMBERG’ with 177 rooms for guests.

The Gästehaus der NSDAP, built for party leaders attending the congresses, opposite the main station
This pre-war photo, presumably taken in 1938, depicted GÄSTEHAUS (closer to the camera) and Grand Hotel (the fat corner of the block)
NSDAP guest house Nuremberg
The Grand Hotel (left) and the former NSDAP guest house (right) in July 1945
The Grand Hotel and the Gästehaus der NSDAP side by side, opposite the Hauptbahnhof
The modern view over the Grand Hotel (on the left) and the former Guest House (to the right)

 

THE BRAUNES HAUS IN NUREMBERG: THE GAU HEADQUARTERS, NOT THE MUNICH ONE

This rare-tourist-route building, historically known as the ‘GAUHAUS’, was built upon the project of Franz Ruff and grand-opened in 1937 as the new residence of Julius Streicher, the editor of the ‘Der Sturmer’ right-wing magazine. In a more narrow sense, the building was a gift to Streicher on his 50th anniversary in 1935, yet not open until February 1937. In the following years, the ‘GAUHAUS’ OR ‘BRAUNES HAUS’ was a residence of the party headquarters in Nuremberg.

The same building today — not to be confused with the Munich Brown House
The building of the former Braunes Haus in the 1950s
The Nuremberg Braunes Haus during the Third Reich
This photo of the square was taken in 1961. The former Braunes Haus is to the right

The building was hardly damaged in Spring 1945 as a result of the Allied air raids and was photographed burned out. Since 1949, the ‘Verlag Nurnberger Presse’ publishing house has occupied the renovated building. The modern lettering ‘NURNBERGER NACHRICHTEN’ can be seen encrypted in the very same place as the Nazi eagle and Swastika during the Third Reich era. The back wall of the former Braunes Haus has preserved the Nazi bas-relief with a mythic hero who fights with a snake. At that time, it was categorized as the hero of the National-Socialism was antagonizing the Weimar Republic and the Jews.

The Braunes Haus on Marienstrasse, the NSDAP Gau headquarters for Franconia
The building is located beyond conventional WWII-related tourist routes
The former Nazi headquarters in Nuremberg
A distinctive sign on the front side

AFTER 1938: THE RALLY THAT NEVER HAPPENED

Did Hitler come back to Nuremberg after 1938?

The party congress of September 1938 — the Reichsparteitag Großdeutschland, held 5–12 September to celebrate the annexation of Austria — turned out to be the last one. Nobody knew that at the time. The tenth congress was already scheduled for 2 September 1939 and had a name: Reichsparteitag des Friedens, the Rally of Peace. Invitations had gone out, the programme was set, the city was preparing.

At the end of August it was cancelled, without any reason being given publicly. On 1 September 1939 German troops crossed into Poland. The rally that was to be called the Rally of Peace never took place, and no party congress was ever held again.

After the 1938 Rally, Hitler visited Nuremberg several times. On November 3, he inspected the progress of construction of Märzfeld and Congress Hall in the territory of the Rally Grounds. On May 3, 1939, Hitler departed from Berlin and made his way to the Obersalzberg. He paused in Nuremberg to review the construction site of the Reich Party Congress once again. During this visit, Albert Speer provided him with a personal update on the advancement of this specific project. On July 25, 1939, Hitler assessed the advancements achieved in the building of the Congress Hall in Nuremberg. On November 9, 1939, he heard about an explosion in the Munich beer hall Burgerbraukeller on his way to Berlin, during a brief stop at the train station of Nuremberg. This brief stop is the last known of Hitler’s presence in the city.

What the war did to the city itself took six years and one night. Nuremberg was bombed repeatedly from 1940 onwards, but the old city survived largely intact until the raid of 2 January 1945, when around ninety per cent of it was destroyed in roughly an hour. The buildings in this article that still stand are, with few exceptions, the ones that were rebuilt afterwards.

 

WALKING THE NAZI SITES OF NUREMBERG TODAY: MAP AND ADDRESSES

Eight buildings, two kilometres, one afternoon. Unlike the rally grounds out at Dutzendteich, all of this is inside or immediately beside the old city, and you can walk it between two trains. What follows is what stands at each address now — because at most of them, nothing tells you what happened there.

1. Hauptbahnhof — where a million visitors arrived. The station opposite the Königstor is still the one the rally trains used, and it is still the second-busiest in Bavaria. The 1906 building survived the war in part; the concourse you walk through is post-war. Nothing marks the rally years, but the geography explains itself: from the platforms it is four minutes on foot to the Grand Hotel, six to the Deutscher Hof, and the tram to the Reichsparteitagsgelände leaves from the far side of the square. Nearest stop: it is the stop — U1, U2, U3, all S-Bahn lines.

2. Grand Hotel and the Gästehaus der NSDAP — Bahnhofstrasse 1–3. Directly opposite the station, the Grand Hotel of 1896 was where the party’s senior guests stayed during the congresses, with the purpose-built Gästehaus der NSDAP adjoining it. Today the Grand Hotel is the Le Méridien Grand Hotel Nürnberg, restored and working; the lobby and the historic staircase can be seen without being a guest, and the building is one of the few on this walk whose interiors survive in recognisable form.

3. Hotel Deutscher Hof — Frauentorgraben 29. This is the most important address on the walk and the one that has changed most. The hotel building itself stands, is listed, and after a four-year restoration completed in spring 2016 is now an office building, occupied by a German trade association. Nearest station: Opernhaus (U2/U3), or eight minutes from the Hauptbahnhof.

4. Where the Nuremberg Laws were passed — Frauentorgraben. The building is gone. On its site stands an AOK office building — the regional health insurance fund — and in front of it there is an information panel explaining what was here. Look across the street. In 2000 the city unveiled the memorial to the Nuremberg Sinti and Roma deported and murdered by the Nazis, and the location was chosen deliberately: directly opposite the place where the laws that stripped them of citizenship were passed. It is a small monument and easy to walk past, and the relationship between the two sides of the street is the whole point of standing there. Nearest station: Opernhaus (U2/U3).

5. Fleischbrücke — the bridge that survived. It is one of the very few structures in the old city that came through the night of 2 January 1945 essentially intact, which is why the photographs from 1945 that show it standing among ruins are so widely reproduced. Nothing about it is Nazi. It appears here because the marching columns crossed it, and because it is the only place on this walk where you are looking at exactly what was photographed in the 1930s — no reconstruction, no restoration to a former appearance. Free, open, two minutes from the Hauptmarkt.

6. Hauptmarkt — Adolf-Hitler-Platz from 1933 to 1945. The main square was renamed after Hitler in 1933 and carried his name for twelve years. Nearest station: Lorenzkirche (U1) or Rathenauplatz; the square is the centre of the old town.

7. Rathaus — Nuremberg City Hall. The Rathaus is a composite: the medieval town hall and the great Renaissance Wolff’scher Bau of 1616–22, both gutted in January 1945 and rebuilt after the war. The facade is a restoration. The part that is genuinely original is underneath. The Lochgefängnisse, the medieval dungeons beneath the old town hall, survive intact and are open to visitors as a museum — twelve cells, a torture chamber and a warder’s room, essentially unchanged since the Middle Ages. Guided tours only, and the ceilings are low. Nearest station: Lorenzkirche (U1).

8. The Braunes Haus — Marienplatz 5, today Willy-Brandt-Platz. Not the Munich Brown House. This is Nuremberg’s own, and its story is sharper. Since 1949 the building has housed the publishing administration of the Nürnberger Nachrichten, the city’s newspaper — a deliberate choice at the time, a democratic paper taking over the Gauleitung’s house. The newspaper’s monogram now occupies the place on the facade where the Reich eagle was. The Hercules relief on the rear facade survives. Marienplatz has been renamed Willy-Brandt-Platz and laid out as a green space over an underground car park; the Neptune Fountain that stood in front of the building was moved to the Stadtpark. Of the eight buildings on this walk, this is the one where the substitution of one symbol for another is literally visible on the stonework. Nearest station: Lorenzkirche or Hauptbahnhof, five minutes.

Nazi and Third Reich sites in Nuremberg then and now map

 

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Why did the Nazis choose Nuremberg? Partly for its symbolism — the city of the medieval imperial diets, the Reichstage, which let the regime present itself as the successor of the First Reich. Partly for practical reasons: it sat at the centre of the German rail network, had a Nazi-controlled city administration early, and had the space south-east of the centre for a permanent parade ground. Hitler declared it Stadt der Reichsparteitage — City of the Party Rallies — on 30 August 1933.

Which Nazi buildings can you still see in Nuremberg city centre? Eight, in various states. The Rathaus, the Hauptmarkt with the Schöner Brunnen, the Fleischbrücke, the Hauptbahnhof, the Hotel Deutscher Hof, the Gästehaus der NSDAP and the Braunes Haus all survive in some form; the building where the Nuremberg Laws were signed does not. The section above gives the address and current status of each.

Where were the Nuremberg Laws signed? Not at the rally grounds, as is often assumed, but in the city, at a hall on Frauentorgraben where the Reichstag was convened in special session on 15 September 1935. The building no longer exists.

Where is the balcony Hitler used in Nuremberg? On the Hotel Deutscher Hof, rebuilt in the mid-1930s to his own requirements as his residence during the congresses. He appeared on it at every rally. The building still stands.

Did Hitler come to Nuremberg after 1938? The congress of September 1938 was the last one held. The tenth, scheduled for 2 September 1939 and already named the Rally of Peace, was cancelled at the end of August; the invasion of Poland began on 1 September. [Дополнить прямым ответом после сверки по хронологии Хаунера.]

Was Nuremberg destroyed in the war? The old city, yes — around ninety per cent of it, mostly in a single raid on the night of 2 January 1945. The rebuilding after 1945 deliberately restored the medieval street plan and the appearance of the main buildings, which is why the centre today looks older than it is.

Is this the same as the Nazi party rally grounds? No. The rally grounds — the Zeppelinfeld, the Congress Hall, the Luitpoldarena — are four kilometres south-east of the old city and are covered in a separate article. This one is about the buildings in the city itself.

Was the Brown House in Nuremberg the Nazi headquarters? No — that was in Munich, on Brienner Strasse. Nuremberg had its own Braunes Haus, the headquarters of the regional party organisation for Franconia. The two are frequently confused.

The Hauptmarkt, renamed Adolf-Hitler-Platz, during one of the party congresses
A rare photograph of Hitler in the center of Nuremberg during one of the Nazi mass gatherings

 

I am very grateful to war archives, museums, libraries, private collections, and writers for the historical photos in this article. To the extent that some author or a copyright owner may not want some of the above black-and-white photos to be used for educational purposes here, please contact me for adding credits or deleting the pictures from the article.